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SOURCE OF HEAT
BY STEVEN DAVEY
Toronto's hot sauce scene keeps getting hotter. Once a novelty
item, these fiery products -- along with equally incendiary salsas
-- are replacing ketchup as the cool condiment of choice. Here's a
roundup of grassroots hellraisers from right here in Toronto, many
of which are participating in Harbourfront's Hot And Spicy Food
Festival, held August 23, 24 and 25.
The star of Shauna and Joseph Jagnandan's Eat and Weep line of
condiments is their Guyanese-inspired Hot Sauce ($4.99, 355 ml). A
sweet, slightly sour taste gets countered with Scotch bonnet for
fire, carrot for colour and applesauce for texture. Though its name
suggest a chunky jam, the couple's Hot Mango Chutney ($3.25, 250 ml)
is a smooth, fruity sauce with a pepper bite. Available at Lively
Life (93 Front East, 416-362-1464) in St. Lawrence Market,
Pusateri's (1539 Avenue, 416-785-8100), the Bay (176 Yonge,
416-861-9111, and others) and Rabba (37 Charles West, 416-964-3409,
and others).
Contact: 416-789-2734
Heat score: 5 (out of 10)
Every weekend you'll find Paris -- no last name, please --
hawking his Jungle Boy sauces in front of a boarded-up storefront at
72 Kensington under an umbrella. Based on his grandmother's
Trinidadian recipe, his relish-like sauces come in four strengths,
from the wimpy-but-tasty Dimples to full-throttle Punishment (all
$5.99, 250 ml). And he'll gladly give you a taste for free of his
mustardy creation, thick with minced raw cauliflower, broccoli, star
fruit, mango and papaya. Wonderful, especially with grilled
seafood.
Contact: 416-763-9880
Heat Score: 8
Morris Rozen came up with Fireman's Blend ($6.99, 200 ml) while a
frustrated home cook -- no sauce he tried had the desired kick. So
he concocted this bright-orange mango-based elixir to solve his
fiery dilemma. With a slow burn that builds, this Louisiana-style
sauce is found at Nortown Foods (1 Promenade Circle, 905-889-1610)
in Thornhill, Smokin Jo's at Dominion (735 College, 416-533-2515,
and others) and IGA (623 Danforth, 416-466-5371, and others), as
well as on his Web site, part of a Web ring aptly named Ring of Fire
(ringoffire.net).
Contact: http://www.firemansblend.com/
Heat Score: 5
Zonia and Calvin Slyfield's Joy of Harvest BBQ Jerk Sauce ($5,
355 ml) is only available by mail order or at their appearances at
local food fairs and farmers markets. A mellow, barbecue-like
concoction, it can also be used as a stand-alone table sauce and in
dips mixed with sour cream or yogurt.
Contact: 416-281-2303 or zonia@sympatico.ca
Heat Score: 4
Tipper, of the Caribbean eatery of the same name (1341 Weston,
416-240-8335), has perhaps the most do-it-yourself packaging. He
sells his tamarind-rich sauce in unmarked styrofoam coffee cups ($5,
9 ounces). Use it to fire up almost anything or as a baste when
grilling chicken or pork.
Heat Score: 5
You might have heard the radio spots for Caribbean Menu and its
kickass Mother-in-Law Sauce ($4.75, 500 ml). Only available at its
east-side outlet (2740 Danforth, 416-693-7684), this watery
fire-starter comes full of habaņera pepper pulp and seeds and builds
to a mind-blowing climax. Not nearly as off-the-scale as the
hellishly hot Dave's Insanity -- a thermonuclear blast from the
States -- this Mother-in-Law is always welcome.
Heat Score: 9
Dan Taylor and his Dan T's Inferno hot sauce company is a huge
success, with his numerous sauces available at Loblaws and Dominion
stores across the country. He describes his line as having "a
balance of heat and flavour. These aren't sauces that have to be
tasted with a toothpick." Despite the claim, his White-Hot Cayenne
Pepper Sauce caused our official taste-tester -- Power Serge -- to
wince, cough, then sneeze. In his books, that's good. Smoked
Cayenne-Chipotle Sauce is much milder and somewhat smoky, while
Mustard Cayenne Pepper Sauce (all $3.49, 237 ml) recalls hot dog
topping.
Contact: 905-564-3226 or http://www.dants.com/
Heat Score: 6
For years, Mados' Caribbean Pepper Sauce ($5.79, 350 ml) was only
known to foodie insiders. Made in exotic Ajax by Elizabeth Doctrov
Mados, her delicious pumpkin and pawpaw (papaya) is still sold at
House of Spice (190 Augusta, 416-593-9724) in Kensington, but is now
distributed by the folks at Rhino (1249 Queen West, 416-535-8089),
the Parkdale restaurant. Universal Grill, Tortilla Flats and Toba
serve this versatile sauce, too. Great with almost everything --
including peanut butter sandwiches!
Contact: 416-531-4821
Heat Score: 7
Not a hot sauce as such, the Saucy Assistant describes itself as
a "versatile liquid seasoning." Think of it as a power-boosting
concentrate added to dishes like meatloaf or lasagna. Available in
Original as well as Garlic, the intense Smoked Jalapeņo (all $3.99,
375 ml) has lots of pepper pulp and a slight vinegar twist.
Available at Pusateri's and Highland Farms (4750 Dufferin,
416-736-6606, and others).
Contact: 1-866-335-7759
Heat Score: 4
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